Last week Sweet and Sound attended the London College of Fashion MA_12 showcase at the Victoria and Albert Museum. Find out what we thought of this years crop…
First to shuffle down the horseshoe catwalk was Xianfen Gu – Glossy rubber lace, the colour and texture of cassette tape, was webbed onto slouchy tailored silhouettes that appeared beaded at first glance. Each look shimmered as the light coated the garments and the contrast of boxy, over-sized shapes against the tissue thin lace was both sensitive and playful – a palette pleasing first offering from the college.
Tina Elisabeth Reiter, who later that evening went on to win the best Menswear Collection of the year, offered autumnal country browns, terracotta and black in the form of over-grown aprons worn as skirts and separates that wouldn’t look out of place upholstered onto a chaise in a country manor. Though it was the footwear, designed by Elin Melin (MA Fashion Footwear) that give the collection a grittier edge. Moody leather flatforms, thigh high wading boots and polished ankle boots hardened earthy linens, tweeds and heavy pleats.
Punchy raspberry brights from Josephy Turvey were the welcome burst of energy that caught our attention next. Stripes of rainbow knit and sheer mesh appeared alongside illustrated shirts and acid bright lace shorts. Looks appeared dipped in illustration with Turvey’s clever but simple use of colour, line and form. The styling – socks worn with sandals, lace caps and sheer biking shorts layered under square-shaped boxers – made this Menswear collection stand out.
Seul Ki Uhem offered colour-blocked tailoring for women, with complimentary colours chopped and dotted together, this graduate created visually pleasing compositions. Modern structures were contrasted with wispy thin fabrics that played around the ankles with each movement and the focus on line, cut and colour achieved considered but minimal forms.
As more and more collections hurtled past (there were 23 in total) it became clear that the graduating class of 2012, influenced by their tutors and peers were steering trends amongst themselves. One of which was white, and not just a little bit of white. There was white on white on white throughout the evening, each time used differently from the last. In menswear, Sum Yu Li offered chunky men’s cable knits, woven like tendons in a complex web of texture and volume. Bulky cotton wool textures with deep v-necks puffed on top, whilst in the trouser department we saw generous shiny slacks in creamy hues paired with squeaky clean white high-tops.
Breaking up the tonal trend was menswear designer Tzu Fung Kwok. Fizzy digital prints emblazoned on sharp suits looked alive as they filed down the catwalk. Almost sci-fi themed, the printed gradients looked like exploding stars, suggesting a kind of robotic malfunction as the models each wore perspex black-out goggles and acrylic bucket hats.
Having seen a sneak peek during the LCF MA_12 exhibition, I was excited for Rahul Verma‘s catwalk debut. The fluffy collection I had seen hanging on rails earlier in the week came alive. When in movement, the air brushed against cloud soft furs, skeletal sheers and cotton wool tufts. Tonal grey, french manicure nude and snow made up the unfussy palette, while crops, drops and repositioned waistlines created over-sized silhouettes.
Cellophane thin blouses from Melanie Anayiotos, oddly reminded me of the perforated plastic panel on a baguette bag. Curved shoulders, baggy shapes and Scandinavian simplicity made this champagne and nude collection very wearable. Tacked wrinkles, resembling kneaded clay added interest to minimal forms. The perfect measure of fuss free detail came in the form of painterly gold trimmed necklines and dusty gold leaf rubbed into modern outerwear.
Although we’d seen smatterings of glitz, the theme of opulence was stepped up a gear by Jennifer Murray‘s kingly menswear collection. Sponsored by Kopenhagen Fur and a number of jewellers, Murray’s graduate collection featured blond furs embellished with clusters of gems. There was tonic silver tailoring, baroque embroidered trews grazed at ankle height and white furs featuring prints of dried flowers in mauve, moss and yellow. A fast favourite for it’s attitude and boldness.
And finally, the last graduate to present was hotly tipped Hana Cha. Her collection of wrapped wool, papery gold fabric and baggy silks fringed with hairline strands of swinging beads won best womenswear collection of the year. And rightly so, as she offered sharply cut, a-symmetric silhouettes in deep mauve, Bordeaux, black and gold. Appliqued with hairy black strands that danced with movement, every look in the collection was strong.
And finally, the finale – A chance to see every look just once more before turning in for the night, exhausted and inspired. Overall, the standout students were those who used texture and colour (or lack thereof) with innovation and flair, like Joseph Turvey – for this perfect pitch between clean and clutter, and Jennifer Murray, who gave a two finger salute to the term ‘less is more’. Without question, there is a bright future ahead for each of these bright young things.
Photography | Patricia Karallis