‘And the light shone in the darkness, and the darkness did not comprehend it’ -
Vukovar poster, propaganda campaign against the siege of Sarajevo…
In the coffee shop at the edge of the old Ottoman bazaar there is a vast array of glittering cakes with creamy fillings and dusted with icing sugar, the coffee is strong and staff clear away ashtrays regularly. The people who frequent the coffee shop are not tourists, some are old men dressed in brown and grey suits who wear caps that have been atop their heads ever since Tito first ruled over Yugoslavia. There are young Muslim women wearing colourful headscarves with two adorable children in pushchairs, feeding the children chunks of cake as they chat around the table. I am reminded that even babies weren’t safe during the siege of Sarajevo, targeted by the sadistic snipers secreted in the hills, and shot in their pushchairs. A serious faced young man, dark hair, dark eyes, a dark countenance of brooding violent energy, emerges and patrols past the coffee shop wearing the uniform of the Bosnian armed forces, laden with a heavy looking assault rifle.